Frequently Asked Questions

Please scroll down to view all questions; we will eventually put a table of contents once more FAQs are filled out for your convenience. If you need additional help or would like to view the install guides and quick start manuals for equipment that Prestigious Pools has sold or installed please visit our Pool equipment page and click on the category for the product you would like info on; thank you.

Troubleshooting-FAQ 001

I just updated My Router and my iAqualink isn’t Working.

This common issue is caused by one of Three issues.

Option 1:

Due to a new router, your wifi name and password will have been changed from what the iAqualink remembers in its user settings. To fix this issue please do the following. First, click on the button below this paragraph labeled Quick Start Guide and follow the pdf file steps before option 2. Please Note that iAqualink requires a Static 2.4GhHz Wifi Band to connect to your router. The iAqualink Brochure is also a good resource if you have questions regarding how the app works and how to navigate the menus.

Option 2:

If you already have a new Router device, either a Whole Home Network Router or a Mobile Phone Provider Router, you must do this before option 1. Newer Routers have an Automatic Filter in their hardware to create a single wifi band that auto-chooses if a device should be 2.4 GHz/5.0 GHz. This feature causes issues with older tech since certain tech is looking for a standalone or static 2.4GHz wifi band Luckily the fix for this already exists in all major router brands. If your wifi no longer shows up as “Example Home 2.4” as a wifi name like this this probably means the auto filter is turned on.

For an Explanation of how to fix this issue please click on the following logo of the brand of the Router you Own or currently use. We have attached a DIY how-to video link from your provider to walk you through how to add or disable your 2.4/5.0 filter and enable a static 2.4GHz wifi band for your iAqualink to connect to. This static Wifi band is also good for smart home devices and garage door openers. If you have issues with trying to do this feature please reach out to your internet provider who can facilitate this service in a more explanator or via remote access through the provider’s system.

IF AFTER TRYING BOTH OPTIONS YOU STILL ARE HAVING ISSUES REGARDING WIFI CONNECTIVITY PLEASE CONTACT YOUR WIRELESS PROVIDER TECHNICAL SERVICE HOTLINE. THE PHONE NUMBER FOR THIS IS AVAILABLE VIA GOOGLE SEARCH OR ON YOUR RECENT BILLING STATEMENT FROM YOUR PROVIDER.

— Wifi Band-splitting Troubleshoot guides —

If you don’t see your provider listed above please call your provider’s technical and or customer support line and ask them “How do I split my 2.4ghz/5.0ghz wifi bands”

Option 3: I have done options 1 & 2, and have made a split 2.4ghZ static wifi band, Yet my iAqualink is still not connecting…

If you have reached this step well your last option is to take a deep breath and take the next step into the realization that you may need to expand your wifi network or purchase a third-party wifi extender or Whole Home Mesh wifi router system. The reasoning behind this is that most internet provider rental devices use poor or singular antennas. As seen below this is illustrated as a bubble effect or “wifi connection range”, this range area on singular devices may be too short or condensed to provide adequate wifi service to your exterior devices.

Exterior wifi devices have on drawback from your normal wifi or smart devices they do not benefit from the reflective wifi signals bouncing off of your walls and home interior features. Wifi signals are not omnipresent they reflect off wood, metal, and stone, It is best to envision your wifi router as a sprinkler the wifi that comes off the router doesn’t penetrate every wall instantly nor does it pass through windows or doors easily. Radio waves which are a type of wifi are only as powerful as their antenna. So if you own a Mesh router system rather than a singular wifi router then you will always have a more powerful wifi range. To see the difference please look at the diagram we have included below.

So now that you understand the visual difference between a Singular Router and a Mesh Router it’s time to answer the question of option 3. The simple answer for a singular router is to purchase a third-party wifi extender, we would recommend an “exterior waterproof wifi extender” that can be mounted to the side of your home or near the equipment pad. Note this external device may need a 110v Power connection and or a hard-wired ethernet connection; which will power the device depending on the model you choose. This wifi extender will take your singular router range and boost it in a smaller range orb centered on the wifi extender.

You can also do this option for a mesh router, but for these options, these users have the better option of just buying an additional mess access point to give the range you would need. Just make sure that if you are going with an additional mesh access point you choose an option that follows one of these two focuses. A) The mesh access point has a greater range than your existing model and will be located inside near the targeted exterior wall. B) The mesh wifi access point is rated for Exterior use and can be mounted on the side of your home in the range of the targeted area of the equipment pad.

If after all three options, you still are unable to get your iaqualink to register your new wireless network then you may want to consider the fact that you may want to hardwire your aqualink to your home router via Ethernet cabling. These options should take care of the issue but if you are still struggling please reach out for a service call where we can work through these steps and help you come to the best use case to fix your current connectivity issue.

Troubleshooting - FAQ 002

My Phosphates are High and how to correct this?

Phosphates are organic materials that naturally occur in your pool, coming from dead leaves, lawn fertilizer, and many other sources. At high enough levels, phosphates feed algae to grow in your pool. This will turn your pool’s water green and cloudy.

It is unlikely that you will be able to remove all of the phosphates from your pool. However, your goal is to keep phosphate levels low enough that they won’t help algae grow.

Dangers of Too High Phosphate Levels

High phosphate levels may affect your health if it is too high. More importantly, it will affect how you manage your pool. High phosphate levels feed algae and promote algae growth, which in turn makes it more difficult and expensive to kill the algae and keep your pool chemistry balanced. High phosphate levels also use up chlorine quickly, making it even more difficult to kill the algae and keep your pool clean.

How to Remove Phosphates in a Pool

In most cases, you won’t need to address phosphates for a very long time. However, there are several things that you can do to prevent phosphates from building up or to remove them. Keeping organic materials, such as leaves and yard waste, out of your pool prevents phosphate buildup. As organic material breaks down, it releases phosphates into the water. Another option is to prevent algae buildup as much as possible.

If you need to remove phosphates, there are chemicals that you can use. Phosphate removers should be used sparingly if at all since they pose a health risk. Always consult a professional before considering phosphate removal chemicals.

How to Remove Phosphates via Filter Type

Common Questions regarding Phosphates:

Can you swim in a pool with high phosphates?

You can swim in a pool that has phosphates in it. You likely already have. It is important to track the level of phosphates, as extremely high amounts (in the order of 1,000 ppb) can affect your health.

Are phosphates bad for your pool?

Phosphates may not directly harm your pool, but they can indirectly create problems. High levels of phosphates promote algae growth, which can hurt the lining of your pool. Those same phosphates also use up chlorine quickly, making it harder to maintain your pool. This makes your pool maintenance more expensive and time-consuming.

How do I test pool phosphate levels?

To test pool phosphate levels, you can buy a phosphate testing kit or take a pool water sample to your local pool supply store. Since phosphates take a long time to build up, having the store technicians test your water every time that you go to the store is an easy way to monitor your phosphate levels.

Where do pool phosphates come from?

The phosphates in your pool come from garden fertilizer runoff, rotting leaves, certain pool chemicals, and your city’s water supply. As you swim in your pool, the residue from skin and hair products may also contain phosphates. In Pennsylvania, a large amount of phosphates come from the local farms and fields in the area via natural weather and wind.

FAQ - Troubleshooting 003

My salt cell is not producing chlorine, how to fix it?

Many inground salt control panels will display a 'Check Salt Cell' error code or indicator light, but these aren't like a check engine light, they are simply reminders to inspect and clean the cell and pop up every 500 hrs or so.

So then, how do you know when the salt cell is dead, or can a salt cell output be measured?

1. CHECK POWER:

The salt cell is powered by the control panel, and before it reaches the salt cell, the incoming 115/230 VAC is stepped down to about 7-9 VDC, by a transformer. A simple way to check that power is on is to feel the power cord for warmth. If the control panel has no indicator lights, that's a good sign of no power. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or GFCI outlet test button. Many salt chlorinators also have a fuse inside the cabinet, designed to blow in the event of power overload, or a lightning strike.

2. CHECK WATER FLOW:

The salt cell needs a certain amount of water flow to operate effectively. Full-featured salt systems use a Flow Switch or sensor to measure water flow entering the salt cell and will open the circuit when flow rates are below a minimum threshold. Flow rates can be reduced by clogged pumps or skimmer baskets, dirty filters, or closed directional valves. If you have a clear salt cell housing, when the salt is producing chlorine, you can see tiny bubbles, giving the water a slightly cloudy appearance.

3. CHECK SALT LEVEL:

The salt cell needs a certain amount of salt in the water to convert the salty water to chlorine. Each salt cell is calibrated to work within a certain range of salinity, generally around 3000 ppm or higher. Full-featured salt systems use a salt sensor that displays the measured salt level and an indicator light that lets you know when the salt level drops below the minimum threshold.

Salt sensors can be faulty, however, so it's always a good idea to check your salt level with salt test strips. You can also purchase a battery tester for salt water measurements which are more accurate and similar to water tests done by a pool service provider.

4. CHECK WATER BALANCE:

Your pH, Total Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness should all be within range, so the chlorine has the most efficacy. Low pH can accelerate the activity of chlorine, causing it to burn off faster. While high pH can reduce the activity, making your chlorine sluggish and less effective. Perhaps more importantly, the Cyanuric Acid (aka conditioner or stabilizer) level must be 20-50 ppm for outdoor pools. Sunny pools that don't use stabilizers can often dissipate free chlorine as fast as it's being put into the water. If the Cyanuric Acid is above 100ppm then a runaway chemical reaction can occur where Chlorine production can rapidly overproduce when boosting above 50% or super chlorination mode (90% or higher) is enabled.

5. INSPECT SALT CELL:

Clean the salt cell regularly to remove calcium deposits. Mineral deposits slow water flow and bridge the gap between metal plates, preventing electrolysis from occurring. Salt systems self-clean by reversing polarity on the metal plates, to slough off the collected calcium. However, even self-cleaning cells need regular inspection and perhaps occasional cleaning.

Also important is to clean the electrode terminals, which can develop corrosion similar to car battery terminals. Terminal corrosion can be removed with an old toothbrush dipped into a Muratic acid solution which can be looked up in your Salt cell’s instruction manual. The ratio of this solution varies between manufacturers.

If you have a clear housing around your salt cell, you can inspect the cell for cleanliness without disassembly. When operating, you should also see tiny bubbles inside the chamber, producing what looks like cloudy water - that's chlorine being created! If you don't have a clear housing to view chlorine being made, many salt cells can be removed from the housing and placed in a bucket of salty pool water. Turn it on and look for tiny bubbles or cloudy water being created.

You can also rinse and clean the Salt cells using a pressure washer head in short bursts. just avoid damaging the cell or the housing when cleaning with a pressure washer to preserve the structural resilience of the salt cell vessel. Salt cells should be removed in cold climate states during winterization and stored indoors to preserve the lifespan of the cell. Winterization covers are availible from most manufacturers to cover the opening where the cell is normally stored winterization contact your local pool servicer for the part.

FAQ - Troubleshooting 004

How do I keep my Pool clean and Balanced?

Pool Chemicals: The Key to a Clean Pool

You could fill your pool with fresh, clean water, and then skim and vacuum it every day, and the water would still get dirty. Leaves, twigs, and other debris fall into your pool. Bugs take their last swims in it. Birds fly overhead and bomb it.

And every time someone swims, they leave behind body oils, hair, dead skin, shampoo, soap, and everything we humans put on our bodies and slough off daily. The only thing keeping those contaminants from turning your pool into a black lagoon is sanitizer, probably the most important pool chemical you’ll ever use. For the sanitizer to work, other water attributes must be balanced: pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness.

Finally, you’ll add pool chemicals to treat algae, clear your pool, and prevent staining, if you have hard water. All of these factors work together to create balanced pool chemistry so you can swim in peace, so knowing what to use and how is crucial.

Chlorine

The most popular pool sanitizer due to its efficacy and low cost, chlorine sanitizes your pool by oxidizing contaminants. It enters molecules and destroys them from the inside out. Chlorine is effective at killing viruses, bacteria, and algae and will also help prevent algae from growing in the first place.

Chlorine comes in two forms:

• Granules: You pour them directly into your pool water, where they dissolve and are distributed by your pool’s filtration system. This isn’t a very effective method, though. It’s time-consuming, and there’s a chance the chlorine won’t be evenly distributed, leaving pockets of not-so-sanitized water around your pool, as well as pockets of super-chlorinated water, which can damage your pool liner.

• Tablets: Available in 1-inch or 3-inch sizes, chlorine tablets can be added to a floating chlorine dispenser, directly into your pool’s skimmer basket, or to an automatic chlorinator.

Stabilized Chlorine (CYA)

If you have an outdoor pool, to prevent the sun from burning off the chlorine in the water, you need stabilized chlorine. It has cyanuric acid, also known as chlorine stabilizer or pool stabilizer, added to it. The cyanuric acid (CYA) protects the chlorine so it stays in the water three to five times longer, which means it’s more effective at keeping the pool clean and doesn’t need to be replaced as often. This saves you money and time.

ProTip: If the chlorine you buy doesn’t specifically say “stabilized” on the label, check the active ingredient. If it’s Trichloro-S-Triazinetrione or simply Trichlor, it’s stabilized.

Cal-Hypo ( POOL-SHOCK)

The term shocking means to add enough chlorine to the pool or spa water to destroy all combined chlorine present in the water. In detail, the process of pool shocking means adding chlorine or non-chlorine shock to your pool to raise the “free chlorine” level. The goal is to raise “free chlorine” levels to a point that destroys unwanted contaminants, such as algae, chloramines, and bacteria. commonly known as Combined Chlorine, Pool shock recycles the Combined Chlorine back into Free Chlorine.

A common term for using a pool shock to destroy combined chlorine is called “breakpoint chlorination.” Usually, reaching “breakpoint chlorination” will require adding 10 times the amount of combined chlorine present in parts per million (ppm). 

ProTip: A simple motto for this Cycle for Pool Shock is, “If my Total Chlorine matches my Free Chlorine then I’m in the Green.” The goal of any pool owner is to have both values match for perfect pool chemistry.

pH

If you remember from high school chemistry class, pH is a measurement of whether a substance is basic or acidic. The scale ranges from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. Anything below 7 is acidic, and above 7 is basic.

To illustrate that a little better, humans’ eyes and mucus membranes have a pH of 7.4. If it were lower, our tears would be acidic and it would burn when we cried. If it were higher, our eyes and nostrils would dry out. Anything that enters your pool can affect the pH level. Rain, dirt, leaves, people, anything. For this reason, it’s important to stay on top of your pool’s pH level to make sure it stays within the optimal range.

Keep a supply of two pool chemicals on hand: pH increaser and pH decreaser. You’ll likely use less decreaser because of how alkalinity is adjusted, but it’s good to keep some in your supply cabinet just in case.

ProTip: The ideal pH level in your pool water is 7.4 to 7.6. This creates an optimal environment for chlorine to do its job.

Alkalinity

This pool chemical’s main job is to prevent pH from drastically moving up and down the scale by acting as a buffer, absorbing major changes to the water before they can affect the pH.

To keep alkalinity steady, keep a supply of alkalinity increaser or baking soda on hand. Yes,  you can use baking soda to increase alkalinity! If both your pH and alkalinity are low, alkalinity increaser and/or baking soda will raise both, another reason to adjust alkalinity first.

Alkalinity decreaser isn’t available as a separate pool chemical, so if your pH and alkalinity are both high, pH decreaser will lower both. Lower the alkalinity first by adding a pH decrease. Yes, this will also lower pH levels even further. Once the alkalinity is where it needs to be, work on bringing the pH back up with a pH increase.

This situation can be tricky to correct, and it may take several tries to get both levels back to normal, so make adjustments gradually to avoid throwing things even further out of whack. If the alkalinity is astronomically high and nothing is lowering it, you can also try to reduce it with muriatic acid.

Important: Because alkalinity protects pH, you must always adjust alkalinity first, then adjust pH, if necessary. Sometimes, getting alkalinity where it needs to be also brings the pH in line. Also Muriatic acid is a very caustic chemical make sure you use proper PPE gear when handling this as well as always mix it with water before putting it into a pool. Proper introduction of this chemical is to walk a bucket of 50/50 of muriatic to water, around your pool’s perimeter as you pour it in and then mix up the water with a brush after pouring for 10 minutes to make sure the acid doesn’t settle to the bottom.

Pro Tip: The recommended alkalinity range in your pool water is 100 ppm to 150 ppm, with 125 ppm being ideal.

Calcium Hardness

A measurement of how hard or soft your pool water is, calcium hardness may vary depending on where you live, and what water source you use to fill your pool. For example, well water is often higher in minerals, including calcium, than water that comes from a spigot. Hardness also affects the water quality in the pool if it’s too low the water can feel slimy if it’s too high then you will feel like you hit a stone when making contact with the water.

If the calcium level in your water is too low, it can lead to scaling and corrosion of your pool walls and equipment. This is remedied by adding calcium hardness increaser. If it’s too high, you may end up with cloudy pool water, which can be addressed by shocking the pool, adding water clarifier or flocculant, and a few other methods.

For Saltwater pools, a high calcium level can also lead to scale forming in the pool a descaling agent is best used in saltwater pools during the pool season to reduce wear and tear from calcium-based compounds building up during normal operations.

Important: High pH can lead to high calcium hardness. Before you try to address a high calcium level, adjust the pH first (after the alkalinity). Calcium also is an Exothermic Chemical so when mixing with water before pouring it into a pool Do Not use your hand or body parts to mix this chemical with water due to the high thermal temp that exudes from mixing with water. Use a Wood stick or PVC pipe for your mixing and pour the 50/50 Mixture around a Pool’s Perimeter

Pro Tip: The ideal calcium hardness level in your pool water is 175 ppm to 225 ppm and 200 ppm to 275 ppm for concrete and plaster pools.

Algaecide

Your best defense against algae is sanitizer, especially chlorine. Keeping the chlorine level in your pool where it should be will keep algae at bay. But things happen, water becomes unbalanced, and algae sneaks in, undetected until you’ve got a full bloom growing and spreading through your pool.

We recommend shocking the pool to kill algae. Depending on the type of algae growing, you may have to double or even triple-shock the pool to fully eradicate it. Certain algaecide also may cause a foaming effect to cause on your pool water. If this happens don’t panic as it is safe to swim still with the foam it’s just an off-gassing effect that may occur with the lifespan of the algaecide over a week or so and will dissipate.

But until you get those chlorine levels back up where they need to be, you can use an algaecide. Despite its name, it won’t completely kill the algae, but it can at least keep the algae from continuing to grow and spread.

ProTip: If the water you use to fill your pool is hard, and contains high levels of minerals, be sure to use a copper-free algaecide. This will help avoid raising mineral levels even more, and possibly staining your pool’s walls and floor.

Clarifier and Flocculant

Why are these two separate pool chemicals? Don’t they do the same thing? Well, yes and no. There’s a major difference between a pool clarifier and a pool flocculant: One treats the symptom while the other treats the cause.

A water clarifier is good to have on hand if, say, you wake up to a cloudy pool on the day you’re hosting a pool party. You don’t want your pool to look uninviting, and you don’t want your guests to hurt themselves by jumping into the pool when they can’t see the bottom. So you can use a pool clarifier to quickly clear up the water. Just know that it’s only temporary, and once the clarifier dissipates, the cloudiness will return.

When you add pool flocculant—also simply called floc—to your pool, it causes all the water-clouding particles to clump together and sink to the bottom of the pool. The only way to get rid of them is to vacuum the pool.

ProTip: You may see some flocculants include the phrase “pool clarifier,” but you’ll never see pool clarifier labeled as “flocculant.” If it’s the floc you need, look for that word on the label.

Metal Sequestrant

If your water contains metals such as iron and copper, you may see some rust-colored or green pool stains. You’ll need to clean the pool to get rid of the stains, but you can prevent them from reoccurring by using a metal sequestrant.

This pool chemical attaches itself to metal particles in the water so they can’t settle on surfaces and stain them. If you use hard water or well water to fill your pool, you may want to keep some sequestrants handy.

Finally Testing, Testing

Knowing which pool chemicals to use when is only half the battle. There’s no way to know what the chemical levels are, and whether you need to add or remove anything without pool water testing.

You’ll probably test your pool more often than you do anything else to it. Before you add chemicals? Test it. After you add chemicals? Test it. After a rainstorm or a big pool party with lots of swimmers? Test, test, test. The quickest and easiest way to test your pool water is with test strips. And at least once a week or bi-weekly take a pool water sample to your local pool store and have them test it for you with their even more comprehensive and accurate testing abilities.